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Tujia, claiming that Bi Zika, that is, the meaning of the locals. There are many opinions on the origin of the Tujia nationality. Through the archaeological excavations in recent years and the literature review, the Tujia people in the western Hunan Province took the early Pu people (later bureaucrats and gentlemen) as the main body, Other ethnic groups, after the Tang and Song Dynasties several white asked. Before the Tang Dynasty were "pretty" general terms, the Song Dynasty began with the "native" is the more stable title, was officially identified in 1957 as Tujia. In the long years of historical development, Tujia people, with their own language only but not their own language, have engraved engraved engraved bearing the ancient concept of nationality through their unique intelligence, rich and far-reaching aesthetic consciousness, and through costumes, artifacts and body movements. course. Their respect for the customs of all things in nature, their affirmation of the lofty value of life, and their infinite vision of the future life continue to this day. These cultural carriers are vividly retained in their conceptions. Through colorful and long-lasting "Xilankapu", primitive wild, entertaining "Margaux" dance, as well as scattered throughout the territory Dagongjiao Qiaojiao, simple and elegant slingshot floor and other art carriers showed, showing the vast family spirit of Tujia people, students give birth to a unique cohesion and deep aesthetic charm. Tujia in Hunan Province are mainly distributed in Longshan, Yongshun, Baojing, Jishou, Fenghuang, Guzhang, Xushili, Zhangjiajie, Sangzhi, Yongding, and Shimen, Huaihua Yuanling and Tupu counties city. First, the origins of Tujia costume Tujia ancient dance "Mao Gusi" in the dancer who draped thatch, leaves, brown hair, straw, and "waved" singing Tujia ancestors "body banana leaf binding, head Wearing the pampas grass, "reflects the ancestral Tujia costumes the most primitive dress up, confirms the Tujia has gone through a grass straw wrapped, raw hair and drink the primitive era. "Mao Gus", Tujia language called "ancient Division dial shop", which means "ancestral story." Its most prominent external features are knot for the service: "Mao Yi" by a combination of five pieces of thatch (or straw, or brown tablets), will be a number of pieces of grass around the waist, chest, and tie Two arms, one made of hood, the head and face all covered, the top of the hood upright 3-5 pyramidal temples, single number that people, double horn that animal. When dancing, holding the "rude stick" representing the penis swings up and down or tilts high to express their admiration for the deity of the world and pray for the survival and multiplication of the tribe. Mao Gusi through the original weird Tujia costumes and body language, retaining the worship of nature, totem worship, ancestor worship and other ancient relics of the spirit symbols, known as "the farthest source of Chinese dance" and the Chinese drama " Activated right ". In 1978, people found a few stoneware in the Neolithic sites of Longyear-leye. There are a lot of coarse ropes, knot patterns and square patterns in the earthenware, which shows that the ancient Tujia ancestors, as early as Sixty-seven thousand years ago learned the extensive weaving process. Zhangjiajie excavated Ba relics on the "vertebra pattern", many unearthed in the Warring States Period jade, talc earrings, etc., reflects the Tujia ancestors of this period headdresses and accessories style. In the Qin bamboo slips unearthed in Yongsan-ri, the historical records of the mass production and delivery of military uniforms by Liye were recorded. It shows that prior to the reunification of the Qin State, the ancient Baizuo of Chu State more than two thousand years ago, Tujia costumes have been formed. In 1986, Zhangjiajie unearthed the bronze candlestick "Three South Mansions" cast during the Western Han Dynasty. The figures were wearing knitted caps and skirts. Second, Tujia clothing development 1. The Tujia costumes worn by Tujia ancestors have rich ethnic characteristics after the Qin Dynasty rehabilitating the Tujia clothing in the Qing Dynasty. The "Five Wildernesses" of "Wuling Man" and "Wu Xi Man" ", Indicating that Tujia ancestors like the" cantharidae "Tujia clothing aesthetic tendencies. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the brocade industry, which had flourished in the Tang Dynasty, entered the heyday at this time. Several dynasties of Jin brocade were splendid and brightly colored, effectively showing the world the great style of the big dress nation. At the same time, with colorful colorful tapestry Tujia costumes naturally become Tujia people's favorite, the South beam "Brooks Cong Cong laugh" there will be described: "Performance of the colored line of which, bright multicolored color can be seen. Or dress, or as a towel, it is also known as 峒 cloth. "Before the change of soil Tujia costumes with the same year asks" Longshan County Zhi "cloud: soil bricks" performance colored line it, colorful and lovely. , Or as a dress, or as a towel, it is also known as post-mortem ". Tujia people advocate the diversity of Tujia costumes and customs, which have been extended to the reorganization of the soil before the reorganization, "indigenous clothes five colored coat" in the "Ming dynasty" also recorded. Before the reorganization of the soil, Tujia costumes still follow the old habits: "men and women vertical hair, short skirts," "men and women of Tujia costumes are all one-style, head wrapped in a napkin, skirts do the best lace." (Qing Emperor Qianlong "Yongshun Fu Zhi"). To Qianlong twenty years, Tujia nationality image for the first time in the form of a line in the "Qing Empress Gonggong map" clearly presented: At this time Yongshun, Baojing and other areas of some Tujia men have started pants, tops are round neck Short gown, long clothing to the thigh, headband, belt, wrapped in leggings; woman is "buns snail", wearing a collar short robe, jacket vest, knees pleated under the skirt to cloth wrapped legs. Women loving earrings, the ears of the wheel decorated with ten ornaments, collar circle hand ring, to show wealth. "Qing" Longshan County ") In 2001, Zhangjiajie unearthed a Ming Dynasty Tujia woman intact: head绾 plate dragon bun, wearing black silk shirt, exterior "eight hook Liezi hat", wearing gold anemone earrings, wearing a three-layer sleeve sleeves, to cross the right 衽 big lapel, wearing large and short cotton underwear, cover a curtain Pleated skirt type, wrapped legs, wrapped around the feet, outside wearing duck shoes. This is the earliest Tujia women's clothing object so far seen, which is almost identical to that of the Tujia women's costumes recorded in the "Qing Emperor's Occupation Letter". Although the physical coat was unearthed to cross the right plaza, and "Qing Empire Gonggong" drawn for the collar short coat jacket vest (than a), but both are typical of the Chinese Ming Dynasty women's clothing shape. Only the length of the clothing should be shorter than the length of the aristocracy of the Han nationality. This is because there are strict regulations on common people's clothing in the Ming Dynasty. "The common people are long and five inches off the ground." From this we can also see that in the long-term contacts with the Han nationality, the intersection of Tujia and Han ethnic cultures is a natural and inevitable phenomenon of cultural infiltration. In addition, the color of the unearthed family dress is elegant blue and green, which is somewhat contrasted with the aesthetic customs of the "local people's gorgeous clothes and color" at the time. This may be because the funeral dress has a special meaning because the custom of wearing a green "shroud" Tujia region there are reservations. Tujia costumes "men and women one-style" pleated skirt, retaining the legacy of the ancient "Sang" legacy. In ancient Chinese history and Jin text, there are "red clan shares", "sang, barrier also, so self-shielding" also said. "芾" has always been interpreted by the interpreter: there is the meaning of an archaic knees, that is, clothes, which is the oldest skirt style, similar to the shape of aprons, waist ties, under the tie 芾 for a curtain pattern. Many ethnic groups in the Yangtze River Basin have had such "Xia Shang", perhaps the most primitive natural ideas in human costume ignorant period have similarities. 2. Tujia dress after the reorganization and reorganization of the Qing reintegration, "reforming the land" is an important turning point Tujia costumes. At that time, the government sent by the Qing government kept banning the custom of chieftain. The Tujia costumes were also included. Yongshun prefect Yuan Chengzong enacted in the eight years of Yongzheng, "Apparel should be divided into men and women also"; Baojing magistrate also "limited to one year, Seoul people age wax, wedding banquet occasion, according to the Han dress color." From then on, the formal appearance of man and woman in Tujia costumes has been completely changed. Men wear tunic full dress instead of piercing flowers and dresses. Women wear full skirts and hats, or eight Roman skirts. During this period, Han merchants brought in large quantities of imported "yabu" into the Tujia area and replaced the cloths and cloths woven by the Tujia people themselves gradually. Blanket or child's cap skirt, almost no longer used for Tujia clothing.At the same time, a class of Tujia clothing with the gradual distance: "Men and women clothing, rich and poor, Rich summer Ge winter fur. "" Grand Master doctor's service Ya, Fu Jia's service, the city's service, the ancient village service. Although the costumes have become more and more rich, most Tujia folk costumes are still very simple. According to the local records of Tujia settlements in Hunan, Hubei, Chongqing and Guizhou, Tujia costumes are "vulgar and simple"; " Wind ";" men and women do bitter and common, vulgar is not crowns. "At this point Tujia costumes have not as bright as before, like the" five-colored coat "custom gradually" still simple "evolved, as the saying goes What is said: "妤 eat tea tea, good to see but the prime dress." Since then, advocating frugality, natural to carve the simplicity of the United States, a family of costumes, a simple aesthetic habit However Tujia clothing, though externally shaped by the The impact and integration of the alien culture, but in the inner soul retains the Tujia their own national character, which is mainly reflected in the totem worship, craft features and unique aesthetic vision, etc. With the passage of time, the historical Development, Tujia clothing culture is gradually disappearing, Tujia region today, government and people from all walks of life have paid great attention to 10. In the "rational use of Development ", in 2002, the Hunan Provincial Ethnic Affairs Commission organized experts and scholars to carry out the first reform of the Tujia costumes and deeply research and develop the Tujia excellent costume culture.With the concerted efforts of modern Tujia costumes, It is not only the continuation of Tujia's most magnificent cultural features, but also meets the aesthetic taste and lifestyle of contemporary people. It has been generally accepted and welcomed in Tujia region in Hunan, Hubei, Chongqing and Guizhou.